Answers — Without the Sales Fluff

Most garages do best with a flake or solid-color build with a durable topcoat. Metallic can be done in garages too — we just spec it for vehicles, hot tires, and cleaning habits.

Flake is rugged and forgiving (great for traffic and wear). Metallic is a designed, artistic look that needs more intent (lighting, room style, and finish choice matter).

Yes — but outdoor requires UV-stable materials/topcoats. Outdoor installs fail when someone uses indoor chemistry outside.

Yes. If the slab needs an MVB, we’ll spec it. If it doesn’t, we won’t upsell it.

Yes. Traction additives can be tuned to the space. “Slippery” is usually a finish + environment issue — not an epoxy issue.

UV exposure can yellow certain materials. That’s why we choose systems and topcoats based on sunlight, outdoor exposure, and color selection (especially whites).

Square footage, prep condition, repairs, system type, and schedule constraints. The cheapest bids usually skip the expensive parts: prep and proper chemistry.

Yes — especially for metallics and branded commercial spaces. We’ll guide you toward designs that look good in your lighting and layout.

Tell us the space type (2–3 car garage, living/dining room, gym, patio, etc.) and upload photos. The more accurate the scope, the more accurate the plan.

Often, yes. We frequently install over concrete, tile, and properly prepped existing coatings. Wood and specialty substrates can also be possible depending on stability and prep requirements — we confirm during the consult.

No — not unless you’re running full speed with water everywhere. We can also tune traction based on where it’s installed.

Yes — we repair cracks as part of the prep. The surface gets profiled, repaired, moisture addressed when needed, primed, built, then protected.

Mostly the topcoat and the build. Some systems return to service quicker than others. We’ll match it to your use-case and your timeline during the consult.

It can — depending on use-case, grit, furniture, and topcoat. We build the topcoat around how you live in the space. Refresh topcoats are possible later and cost far less than replacement.

Sunlight doesn’t have to be a problem — provided the right base materials and UV-stable topcoat are used. Bright spaces and outdoor installs require correct material selection.

Yes. We can do man caves, barns, and specialty spaces — we build the system around the environment and usage.

Often, yes — depending on scope and the system selected. Tell us your constraints and we’ll propose a realistic schedule.

Yes. We can tune traction to the space (bars, kitchens, entries) without ruining the look.

We scope the square footage, prep condition, environment, and schedule window. Photos help; a site visit is ideal for larger jobs.

We can test and/or plan for it with a moisture vapor barrier when needed. Moisture is a major reason coatings fail — we don’t ignore it.

Return-to-service depends on system choice, build thickness, and cure time. If you need it open fast, we’ll spec the system accordingly — and we’ll be honest if chemistry says it needs more time.

Some can. We select topcoats based on your cleaning routine and recommend compatible cleaners to avoid hazing or premature wear.

Often, yes. Phasing depends on layout and access, but we’re used to working around businesses that can’t fully shut down.

Yes — but kitchens need traction planning, chemical resistance, and realistic expectations about abuse. We design the system around that environment.

They’re durable, but not “set-a-500°-pan-on-it” durable. Use trivets/hot pads. Heat is the fastest way to haze or damage resin finishes.

“Food safe” is product-specific and depends on full cure + intended use. If food-contact compliance matters to you, we’ll select systems/topcoats accordingly and follow manufacturer cure requirements.

They can. Cutting directly on the surface will scratch it — use a cutting board. We can refresh clear later if needed (normal long-term maintenance option).

Yes — that’s where epoxy shines. We’ll guide you toward a look that fits your cabinets, lighting, and backsplash so it doesn’t feel random.

Often, yes — if the substrate is stable and correctly prepped. Bad prep over glossy laminate is how coatings peel.

We handle seams/edges as part of the system build. Some layouts are nearly seamless; others have unavoidable transitions depending on the existing countertop shape.

It depends on prep condition, design complexity, and cure time. We’ll give you a clear plan so you know when you can use the kitchen again.

Mild cleaners and non-abrasive pads. Avoid harsh chemicals and scouring powders. We’ll give you a simple care list based on the topcoat used.

Once fully cured, resin finishes are generally stable for normal use. During installation, proper ventilation and safety procedures matter (like any coating). We follow product-specific cure times and handling requirements.

A shower doesn’t stay leak-free because of tile, grout, or a “pretty wall finish.” Leak prevention comes from a correctly detailed waterproofing system behind the surface (membrane, seams, penetrations, corners). If the waterproofing is wrong, any surface can fail.

It depends on your goal. Resin walls can look seamless (fewer grout lines) and wipe down easily. Tile is classic and repairable, but grout maintenance is real and waterproofing still has to be done correctly behind it. “Better” comes down to look + maintenance preference + correct build.

Sometimes — but only if the tile is solid, the substrate is stable, and prep can be done correctly. If tiles are loose, hollow, or the shower has existing waterproofing issues, coating over it is not the move.

We will not pretend a decorative surface is a waterproofing system. If the shower isn’t already correctly waterproofed (or can’t be made that way), we’ll tell you. A proper membrane + correct detailing is what keeps water where it belongs.

Those are the failure points in most showers. Any shower build needs correct detailing at corners, seams, and penetrations. If those aren’t done right, you can have leaks no matter what the surface looks like.

Non-abrasive cleaners and soft pads. Avoid harsh acids, aggressive scouring powders, and anything that’s designed to etch or strip finishes.

Steam showers require higher-level moisture/vapor planning than a standard shower. Not every system is suitable. If you have steam, we’ll treat it as a different category and plan accordingly.

Deep pour epoxies are formulated for thicker casts with slower cure and lower exotherm. Standard countertop epoxies can overheat in thick sections and cause cracks, warping, or cure failures.

Epoxy curing is exothermic (it generates heat). In thick masses, that heat can build up fast and cause an uncontrolled cure — leading to thermal runaway, cracks, warping, and sometimes smoke/heat damage. That’s why we match resin type and pour depth to the project.

It depends on the specific deep-pour resin. Some are designed for ~1–2 inches per pour, and some specialty casting systems claim up to ~3 inches in a single pour. We follow the product’s technical data and build plan.

Often, yes — but we need to verify material compatibility, sealing, and whether the object can off-gas or react during cure. Some items look cool but create bubbles or discoloration if not prepped.

Bubbles are managed with correct resin selection (low viscosity helps), temperature control, sealing porous substrates, and proper technique. Deep pours have different bubble behavior than thin flood coats.

UV exposure can amber many resins over time. If the piece will see sunlight, we plan for it with resin selection and UV-stable topcoat options where appropriate — and we’ll keep expectations realistic on “crystal clear forever.”

Food-contact claims are product-specific and depend on full cure + intended use conditions. If you need a food-contact safe finish, we’ll select systems/topcoats accordingly and follow manufacturer cure requirements.

Custom work is schedule-sensitive: cure times, multiple pours, sanding/polishing, and topcoating can add time. We’ll give you a realistic timeline based on the build plan — not vibes.